Creating a Dreamy Summer Dress from Alison (aka @sewlikedotty)

Hi! I’m Alison from Instagram @sewlikedotty & YouTube. I’m a sewist & vlogger. I was delighted to be chosen by Kayleigh as the Seasonal Spotlight Sewist.for Summer as its most definitely my season. I love pinks, blues, and all things floaty and beachy.

Kayleigh was great at recognising my preferred colours and print choices. I like floral and geometric prints and this stunning viscose from Dashwood Studios gave me the wow factor as I was unwrapping it. It has beautiful drape and the colours are simply stunning.

I’m 5Ft 6 inches & chest 44 inches, waist 39 inches and hips 48 inches. I knew my make was going to be a dress immediately but the fabric would have been perfect for palazzo pants or a blouse too.

I chose 4 different patterns and used Magic Mock up in Stash Hub to generate images in the fabric print which really helps me to get the perfect pattern/fabric every time. I asked my YouTube subscribers and Instagram followers to vote.

Pattern 1- Self drafted kaftan dress

Pattern 2 – Indigo bodice/Fleur sleeves/Davenport skirt hack

Pattern 3 – Sewing Bee Modern Wardrobe Shirred Dress

Pattern 4 – Style Arc Belle Dress

So, I’ve got to be honest I really was leaning towards the shirred dress. Shirring screams summer to me. But the voting didn’t go that way at all!

The overall winner was the Belle Dress and 2nd was the Kaftan. I had a lovely chat with Kayleigh and as much as I love the Belle Dress (I think I have 7) the summer heatwave had arrived and I was reaching for my kaftan style dresses as they were so cool, easy to wear and accessorize and suit my retired slightly chilled lifestyle.

There’s a detailed description of making this dress on my YouTube Channel 

PREPARING THE PATTERN/FABRIC

It’s a very simple design. For non-directional fabric for the bodice and sleeves I just cut out 2 long rectangles see Pic 1. Measure from your waist up to your neckline and down to your back for the panel length adding 2 cm for seam allowances.

For the second measurement – measure from your neckline to the finished sleeve length you prefer. I like just under my elbow. Add 5 cm for seam allowances.

For that under-arm curve that gives a lovely lose kimono style sleeve I used the Friday Pattern Company Saguaro top as a template. (For directional fabric simply add a shoulder seam and ensure the direction of the fabric is correct for front and back piece.)

 At this point I finish all raw edges - do this however you prefer, but for Rayon and Viscose it is better to use an overlocker/serger or French Seams to keep those edges from fraying.

Creating the skirt

For the skirt you could cut out rectangles but I use the Friday Pattern Company Davenport skirt back skirt piece. Cut on the fold and adjust the size of the skirt piece to ensure the top of the skirt is the same width as the bottom of the top. See Pic 2

Create the main body of the skirt pieces pinning right sides together then sewing with a 1 cm seam allowance

You can make the skirt all one length or add a ruffle (just add rectangles of the fabric at your preferred depth 2 or 3 pieces depending on the fabric width and your preferred amount of floatyness. Join together, gather and attach to the skirt. Also finishing all raw edges

You could add side seam pockets from your favourite pattern template too.

Making the top

Place both pieces right side together.

Pin together along the longest edge 6.5 inches for the base on both ends of the longest side.

Now stitch using a 2 cm seam up to this point on both ends. Press along the whole length of each side by 1cm and then fold over again.

Topstitch each of these long lengths.

Once completed, sew a bar tack across both sides at the 6.5 inch point this gives extra stability to this point.

With right sides together pin and then sew from the sleeve edge up and around to the waist on both sides with a 1 cm seam allowance

You now have your top!

To join together the top and skirt:

Turn the skirt inside out and pop the top inside it so they are right sides together. Pin to secure.

With a 1 cm seam allowance, sew the circumference of the skirt & top, leaving a 3 cm gap to insert the 1cm elastic.

Sew a second row of stitching 1.5 cm from the first one in a complete circle (no need to leave the gap on this one).

Tip: Before inserting your elastic: slightly stretch your elastic, this is because usually the first time you stretch elastic it doesn't have a 100% recovery. To avoid inserting your elastic for it to then stretch and be too loose, a little stretch helps to sort this out and get a more accurate length.

Insert your elastic into the channel - tip: use a safety pin secured through the end of the elastic, to thread through the channel, the safety pin is easy to grip and makes threading elastic a doddle. Try on to find the perfect length of elastic for you (simply use the safety pin to join the ends of the elastic so you don't lose either end).

Sew the elastic together and sew to close up the 3cm gap in your dress. Finish any raw edges.

Finishing touches

Now try on and check for your final length and hem your skirt and sleeves to your preference. (A deep sleeve hem can work really well)

Voila!!! your kaftan is complete. I’ve included some pictures of my completed dress

Tips:

Use some fabric to toile your top to get the perfect fit for you. Then use this to create a paper template.

Add ties to the back of the dress for decoration or if its slipping from your shoulders

Thank you so much Alison for taking the time to sew and write such a detailed blog, I really love this dress and hope it serves you year after year! Kayleigh x

Please note this blog does include affiliate links whereby Kayleigh may receive compensation for sign ups to Stash Hub Plus.